|
Changing a tap washer / tap |
|
3. Different types of pipework ... including how to solder pipes!! |
|
|
Got a dripping tap? changing a tap washer is simple, just follow these few steps! (applies to most common taps) 1. TURN OFF THE WATER at the stop cock, (this looks like a tap within a pipe, and is commonly found under your kitchen sink or under the stairs). If you cannot find the stop cock, try looking outside on the pavement out of the front of your property. You will find a small metal lid in the pavement with "stop cock" written on it, open the lid, and isolate your water supply from here (note, this cock may require a special tool to turn the tap with). 2. Now the water is off, turn on a tap to release the pressure in the pipes. Then leaver off any covers on the end of the tap knob, to reveal a screw. Turn the screw to enable the knob to be removed from the tap. (note, some taps have this screw already exposed, so simply remove the screw) 3. You should now see two hexagon shapes on the base of the tap. The top hexagon tightens the washer that seals the knob shaft with the tap, so tighten this if you find the water has been leaking from here (only turn about 1/2 turn at a time - do not over tighten) More commonly the washer is broken, so unscrew the bottom hexagon with an adjustable spanner/ spanner anti-clockwise, and remove the tap mechanism from the tap base. Once removed you will see a black disc of rubber. It is this disc that needs to be replaced by either popping the washer off the cap end, or undoing the screw in the center of the washer (depending on the type of tap). Once you have changed the washer, ensure that the tap base inside is clear of rubbish and replace the tap mechanism, by screwing it into the base clockwise. 4. Refit the knob, and replace the screw, then pop the cover onto the screw. Your leaky tap should now be fixed!
1. TURN OFF THE WATER at the stop cock, (this looks like a tap within a pipe, and is commonly found under your kitchen sink or under the stairs). If you cannot find the stop cock, try looking outside on the pavement out of the front of your property. You will find a small metal lid in the pavement with "stop cock" written on it, open the lid, and isolate your water supply from here (note, this cock may require a special tool to turn the tap with). Under the sink you will see two hexagon shaped nuts, the low one joins the tap to the pipe. Unscrew this nut first. Once removed, take care not to damage the end of the pipe where the olive is located (the olive is the ridge on the end of the pipe). The tricky part is to undo the top nut, which holds the tap tight to the sink. These are often done up very tightly, and are awkward to get too, but once undone, the tap can be removed. Replacement is the reverse of removal. It should be noted that some mixer taps have a flexible pipe to attach your water supplies too, these are quite handy, as you can connect the taps pipe work in a more accessible area. 3. Different types of pipes and fittings
Copper Pipework Copper pipe, is the most commonly used pipe work around today. It is used in domestic and commercial applications and is available in an assorted array of sizes. The most common sizes used in domestic dwellings are 15mm (hot and cold pipes, and radiator pipe work) 22mm for main heating pipe work. Larger sized pipes are rarely used in domestic properties. These copper pipes can be connected together via two methods - Mechanical or Soldered joints. - Mechanical joints can be achieved by using 'Yorkshire' fittings, which are a compression type joint. Yorkshire fittings achieve a water tight joint by compressing a ring of copper (called an Olive) onto the pipe, sealing it to the joint and the pipe. Yorkshire fittings are a popular method of plumbing without the need to solder joints, and have the advantage that the joint can easily be opened if required (though why would you need to remove the pipe again?) - Soldered joints are a cheaper, tidier, and more professional method of plumbing. The pipes are simply joined together using special joints which are soldered to the pipe!
Plastic Pipework Plastic pipes, are relatively new to the market, and are now being used instead of copper - advantages being the pipes are more flexible than copper pipes, so are easy to install, and with joints as easy to assemble as these are - installing plastic pipes is very cost effective. Plastic pipes can be used for heating and for general water services. Joining this type of pipe is extremely simple. The connectors just push onto the end of the pipe - thats it ! These connectors once pushed onto the pipe, lock onto the pipe creating a seal. To remove the joint you simply push back the collar on the connector, and remove it. (this can only be done with no pressure inside the pipe). Underground water pipes are now installed in plastic pipes.
Steel Pipework Steel pipes are normally used in industrial applications rather than domestic, (because all of the joints have to be screwed together) - so special tools are required to apply threads to the end of the pipes at each joint. You might find some gas pipes are installed in iron pipe work (at least up to the meter).
Lead Pipework Lead pipes are currently installed in various locations, especially older properties. But lead is being phased out - due to lead poisoning. Because the water can travel in lead pipes for some time before reaching a tap, lead can be transferred from the wall of the pipe into the water. As you are probably aware - this is not good! Therefore lead pipes are now being removed. Lead pipe work also has the disadvantage that only skilled plumbers can effectively work with it - so if you have lead pipes your probably well advised to think about upgrading your plumbing! Points to remember - if you install new pipe work outside, or in the loft - ensure it is well lagged to keep the frost off the pipes. Copper pipes will suffer the worst if the water inside the pipe freezes (the water will expand when frozen, and will split the pipe).
|